RZR 900 XP Engine Packages for Turbo or Superchargers
How much boost? How much HP? How much money?
A little about turbo RZR XPs. With your typical bolt-on turbo kit (NOT INCLUDED) your XP will produce between 90 and 100 wheel horsepower on pump gas on our dyno without taking the engine apart. Your RZR XP stock on our dyno will produce about 65 wheel horsepower. That's nearly a 50% gain with a bolt on kit at 8 psi. There is much more waiting to be made though. To do this you can either turn the boost up, make your engine more efficient, or both.
Stage 1
This kit is great for someone looking to keep their boost level relatively low. When running boost levels of 8 pounds or less lower compression is not always the best thing. When you lower the compression you will create a small amount of lag, and actually build a few less HP. By retaining the stock 10.5:1 compression ratio you will retain the snap you had with your stock pistons only with the added safety of being a forged CP piston. We provide a Cometic top-end gasket kit, mechanical cam chain tensioner to ensure the timing stays in check, a set of Billet intake manifolds to keep the seal tight and keep from having a failure occur with the stock rubber intake boots, and a set of ARP head studs. This package will allow for safe running of up to 8 psi and be a very fun and responsive setup on a recreational turbo car, or maybe even a unlimited class short course race car. If you plan to run more boost we recommend looking at a stage 2 kit or above. For more info on Stage 2,3,and 4 read the details below.
Stage 2
At this point the next way you are going to get a noticeable increase is to turn the boost up. Boost is where big power is made. Psi is the amount of pressure your turbo is forcing into your engine. What is keeping you from doing this is the strength of your engine's internal components. It will first break a piston. So this is what must be addressed next. By adding a set of CP forged pistons in a lower 9.0:1 compression ratio your engine becomes much more turbo friendly with a lower likelihood of detonation, and no worries of broken ring landings. The pistons alone allow you to run up to 10 psi on pump gas (some would tell you 15psi but we're playing it safe). That is a 15-20+ hp gain to the wheels. At this point you are around 115-125 Hp to the wheels. These engine package has been proven to support up to 15 psi and produce in excess of 150 rear wheel HP on race gas. This kit will include CP forged 9:1 turbo pistons, Cometic top-end gasket kit, Beehive valve spring kit, Heavy duty Shim buckets, ARP head studs, mechanical cam chain tensioner to ensure the timing stays in check, and a set of Billet intake manifolds to keep the seal tight and keep from having a failure occur with the stock rubber intake boots. There are a few options on this kit. By adding a set of our Web Turbo Cams you will gain an additional 10 hp and it is seen pretty much all across the power band. If your cylinder has damage we also offer a +3mm Big Bore Cylinder kit. This will require your stock cylinder in exchange and take your motor to a 935cc. It is available in 9.0:1 only for turbo builds. You can also add the optional 10.5:1 race pistons and build some serious front side HP and insane turbo response, but be fore-warned this setup is not for the timid and race gas is an absolute must. Available in stock bore only. Timing control/alterations are highly recommended.
Stage 3
This gives you as solid a foundation that can be built to push as much boost as you dare. We keep it safe and recommend staying around 15-18 psi, but know many of you will push upwards of 20psi and beyond. This kit is everything in a stage 2 with the addition or Carrillo HD rods and porting. The Carrillo rods give us the security to turn that boost up, and the porting really lets the cams flow what they were intended to. We have seen right below 200 rear wheel HP with these motor builds. We highly recommend having us install this kit. We know what these engines want and our techs build them daily.
Stage 4
This build is for the guys who want to go big or go home! We add a set of Stainless +1mm intake and exhaust valves to the head package and a giant +5mm Billet Big Bore cylinder setup. This not only brings the displacement up to a whopping 975cc, but also helps un-shroud those oversize +1mm valves. Properly tuned on race gas we have seen well over 200 rear wheel HP with this setup and lets just say its a MONSTER!
There's much to consider so give us a call if you have any questions. 619-562-0188.
Stage 1
This kit is great for someone looking to keep their boost level relatively low. When running boost levels of 8 pounds or less lower compression is not always the best thing. When you lower the compression you will create a small amount of lag, and actually build a few less HP. By retaining the stock 10.5:1 compression ratio you will retain the snap you had with your stock pistons only with the added safety of being a forged CP piston. We provide a Cometic top-end gasket kit, mechanical cam chain tensioner to ensure the timing stays in check, a set of Billet intake manifolds to keep the seal tight and keep from having a failure occur with the stock rubber intake boots, and a set of ARP head studs. This package will allow for safe running of up to 8 psi and be a very fun and responsive setup on a recreational turbo car, or maybe even a unlimited class short course race car. If you plan to run more boost we recommend looking at a stage 2 kit or above. For more info on Stage 2,3,and 4 read the details below.
Stage 2
At this point the next way you are going to get a noticeable increase is to turn the boost up. Boost is where big power is made. Psi is the amount of pressure your turbo is forcing into your engine. What is keeping you from doing this is the strength of your engine's internal components. It will first break a piston. So this is what must be addressed next. By adding a set of CP forged pistons in a lower 9.0:1 compression ratio your engine becomes much more turbo friendly with a lower likelihood of detonation, and no worries of broken ring landings. The pistons alone allow you to run up to 10 psi on pump gas (some would tell you 15psi but we're playing it safe). That is a 15-20+ hp gain to the wheels. At this point you are around 115-125 Hp to the wheels. These engine package has been proven to support up to 15 psi and produce in excess of 150 rear wheel HP on race gas. This kit will include CP forged 9:1 turbo pistons, Cometic top-end gasket kit, Beehive valve spring kit, Heavy duty Shim buckets, ARP head studs, mechanical cam chain tensioner to ensure the timing stays in check, and a set of Billet intake manifolds to keep the seal tight and keep from having a failure occur with the stock rubber intake boots. There are a few options on this kit. By adding a set of our Web Turbo Cams you will gain an additional 10 hp and it is seen pretty much all across the power band. If your cylinder has damage we also offer a +3mm Big Bore Cylinder kit. This will require your stock cylinder in exchange and take your motor to a 935cc. It is available in 9.0:1 only for turbo builds. You can also add the optional 10.5:1 race pistons and build some serious front side HP and insane turbo response, but be fore-warned this setup is not for the timid and race gas is an absolute must. Available in stock bore only. Timing control/alterations are highly recommended.
Stage 3
This gives you as solid a foundation that can be built to push as much boost as you dare. We keep it safe and recommend staying around 15-18 psi, but know many of you will push upwards of 20psi and beyond. This kit is everything in a stage 2 with the addition or Carrillo HD rods and porting. The Carrillo rods give us the security to turn that boost up, and the porting really lets the cams flow what they were intended to. We have seen right below 200 rear wheel HP with these motor builds. We highly recommend having us install this kit. We know what these engines want and our techs build them daily.
Stage 4
This build is for the guys who want to go big or go home! We add a set of Stainless +1mm intake and exhaust valves to the head package and a giant +5mm Billet Big Bore cylinder setup. This not only brings the displacement up to a whopping 975cc, but also helps un-shroud those oversize +1mm valves. Properly tuned on race gas we have seen well over 200 rear wheel HP with this setup and lets just say its a MONSTER!
There's much to consider so give us a call if you have any questions. 619-562-0188.
Please Call for Availability
619-562-0188
Description
With our kits you can easily double or even triple your stock horsepower. We have built turbo rzr 900 using K&T, MCX, Aerocharger, Silber, Turbo Specialties and many more. We know what works and how to make it work best.
More info no one else will tell you:
-First about Horsepower claims. I would like to explain this because many companies inflate horsepower numbers to make their kit seem better than the competition. This is the simplest way to explain it. The Atmospheric pressure of earth is 14.7 psi. This means at 14.7 pounds of boost your horsepower should double. It is that simple. At 6.0 psi you should have 40% more horsepower. This is what most low boost kits claim to be run at. A stock RZR 900 makes 64 rear wheel horsepower. This puts you rite at 90 rear wheel hp. We see some manufactures claiming crazy numbers like 120+ with there magic kit at 6psi. All I can say is use your head and common sense. Don't believe everything you read. Yes this is theoretical and some factors can make small variances but for the most part boost is boost.
-Many companies sell low boost turbo kits claiming that you don't need pistons and can run 6 pounds of boost. We find this comical since the wastegate has a minimum adjustment if 8-9psi. They are basically saying good luck. We do not install turbo kits without forged low compression turbo pistons. Why? They are ticking time bombs. They break piston ring lands. The stock pistons are not forged and are not meant for boost. Our custom turbo pistons have extra thick ringlands.
-Many companies sell head shims to lower boost instead of pistons. This is the cheap way out. Yes this will lower your compression and help with detonation. But your left with the inferior non forged polaris pistons. Also when you do this your altering your cam timing which will cause a loss of horsepower. Our theory is if your going through the effort of taking the top end of your engine apart why would you not get it done the rite way. The answer is easy. A shim cost $10 to make and pistons run $450. We do not run shims on any of our builds. We believe Forged pistons are mandatory on any turbo build. There is a reason all OEM vehicles made with factory turbos all have forged pistons. They need them to be reliable.
-Now lets talk about fuel injection setups. There are 2 different ways turbo companies go about this and one works much better than the other. The first setup our favorite is to add 2 additional injectors to the stock 2 for a total of 4 injectors. The other way is to simply replace the stock 2 injectors with larger ones. When you retain your stock injectors your drivability is greatly increased. When you retain the stock fuel injectors when your car is not under boost it runs like stock and operates just like it did from the factory. As boost is made the additional injectors turn on and add the needed fuel. Now if you just swap out your stock injectors for larger ones which by the way are typically twice the size as stock it becomes very difficult to map. All of a sudden at idle and cruise speed and every other speed for that matter your rzr is getting twice the amount fuel. It needs to be completely remapped which is hard to beat the factory Polaris tune. You end up with random stumbles, idle problems, it just isn't as smooth or as drivable. Why would a company just replace the stock injectors as opposed to add 2 more? It is cheaper of coarse.
-What turbo kit do we prefer and why. We primarily use K&T kits. They make happy customers. They are beautifully built and very high quality. You don't have to make the kit fit it is built well and actually fits. After installing over 100 kits from many companies we have settled on K&T. What we don't recommend. Silber turbo uses overseas big turbos that spool slowly and are not nearly as fun to drive. We have actually removed a few from customers cars who were very un-satified. Beware of cheap turbos some companies try to sell you. Most kits use garrett gt22 turbos. If the turbo isn't listed as a Garrett it is probably cheap Chineese.
-Turbo build vs non turbo build. Our stage 4 big bore non turbo engines will produce 98-104 wheel horsepower on pump gas reliably and for less money than a turbo kit. It takes about 8 pounds of boost to make this much horsepower. In a drag race the naturally aspirated engine will win every time. The power hits instantly with no turbo lag. The non turbo engine is much more responsive and fun to drive. So if you are looking at a low boost turbo kit and do not intend to turn the boost up past 8 psi you will enjoy a naturally aspirated setup much more. If you want big horsepower 120+ and can afford to build your engine and put a turbo kit on, turbo is the way to go.
If you have any other questions we probably have the answer. We love to talk about RZR's so ask. 619-562-0188
WARNING: California Residents, this item is subject to Proposition 65 regulations for cancer and reproductive harm.
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